Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Hiatus

Me in the depopulated village of Lifta. Summer 2012.
 
It has been several months since I have updated this blog; however, not a day passes where Palestine doesn't cross my mind. I miss Falasteen so immensely that it physically hurts. Still, I'm starting to accept that, for the time being, I am not meant to live and work there. Don't get me wrong: if the opportunity came up, I would drop everything and move to Palestine in a heartbeat. However, after countless efforts, my dream of moving to Palestine has not come true. I believe that something else might be in store for me, although I have no clue what that something is.

To add to the fun: right now, I'm finding it too painful for me to write about Palestine. My family's neighborhood in Jerusalem is experiencing devastation and destruction and there is little I (or anyone else) can do about it. You can read my posts below about what is happening in Beit Safafa. It might be a little selfish: but I almost want to delay going back to Jerusalem for as long as possible because I don't think I can handle seeing in-person the results of the devastation to the Jerusalem neighborhood I grew up in.

I will be taking a short break from this blog while I try to figure out life stuff. I'm not giving up on Palestine. I will NEVER give up on Palestine. Even if I'm not physically there, Palestine is physically within me. InshAllah, I will pass down my passion for and love of Palestine to my children (if God blesses me with some one day). Palestine will remain a part of my life until I am no longer alive.  Nothing can change that.

Also, I have hundreds of photos from my trip to Palestine six months ago that I still need to upload here. I hope to share those beautiful memories with you soon.

We shall return. Someday. God willing.


Peace, love, and Palestine,
Amira

Friday, March 1, 2013

Beit Safafa: My Family's Palestinian Village Faces Its Demise

Update: The Israeli Supreme Court rejected the case against Israel's highway. The devastating project will go on.

My family comes from a picturesque and quiet Palestinian neighborhood in Jerusalem called Beit Safafa that will be sliced in half by a large Israeli highway that was recently announced. The highway is being built within Beit Safafa in order to connect Israeli settlements in the West Bank with Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Infuriated residents of Beit Safafa, who believe they are being targeted because they are Palestinian, have been protesting since construction began several weeks ago and have petitioned Israeli courts. On February 10th, the Jerusalem District Court rejected a petition to stop the highway; the case will be going to the Israeli Supreme Court next week.

This is the area of land in Beit Safafa (with parts of it belonging to my great-grandfather and having been confiscated by the Jerusalem Municipality) is where the highway will be built. Picture taken Summer 2012.

Beit Safafa is a small residential neighborhood in southern Jerusalem characterized by its olive groves, hills, and ancient caves. This middle-class Jerusalem neighborhood is unique in that few political incidents have taken place there, unlike Jerusalem's other neighborhoods (Sheikh Jarrah, Silwan, etc.). The relative calm in Beit Safafa can be largely attributed to its distance from Jerusalem's old city (Beit Safafa is one of the more outlying Jerusalem neighborhoods). Nevertheless, the last nine months have completely transformed the future of Beit Safafa. Several months ago, an immense Israeli settlement called Givat HaMatos was announced which will be built on Beit Safafa's land and completely cut it off from any other Palestinian neighborhoods. More recently, the Israeli Jerusalem Municipality announced that it will be building a highway to serve settlers in the West Bank that will slice my family's neighborhood through the middle.

The calm in Jerusalem's Beit Safafa neighborhood abruptly came to a halt less than two months ago when, without warning, the Jerusalem municipality began construction of a six-lane highway that will cut the neighborhood in half and completely transform the appearance and nature of the residential neighborhood. The highway, an extension of the Begin Highway, will connect the Gush Etzion block of Israeli settlements in the southern West Bank with Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. The Israeli Jerusalem municipality and proponents of the highway claim that Israeli planning protocols were followed when the original plans for the highway were drafted in 1990. Opponents of the highway claim that it is being built based off of forgotten and outdated plans from 1990 meant for a small urban road, not a highway; furthermore, they claim that it lacks the necessary permits for noise pollution and that a highway of this magnitude should not be built so close to single family homes.

The impacts of the highway on Beit Safafa are numerous and include significant noise pollution from cars, impacts to the environment from construction including the destruction of ancient caves, and residents' difficulties in reaching schools, homes, and mosques that are located on the opposite side of the highway. One of the significant impacts of the highway is that it will divide the neighborhood in half, isolating the residents of the most southern section of the neighborhood, called Tantour, from the rest of the neighborhood. Students living in Tantour will have to cross over the highway to get to school on the other side. As a result of the aforementioned developments, protests have been taking place since groundbreaking began.

The most recent development in Beit Safafa is that residents are accusing Israeli authorities of collective punishment for protests against the highway in the form of sudden, rigid enforcement of Israeli laws including tax raids on local merchants, arrests of residents, and fines for building violations. Despite all the chaos that has ensued after the highway was announced, the Palestinian residents of Beit Safafa have been unsuccessful in preventing highway construction from taking place.

This article will be updated once the case goes to the Israeli Supreme Court next week.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

How Israel Revoked My Mother's Right to Live in Her Native Jerusalem

Most discourse on Palestinian refugees focuses on the events of 1948, when Israel was established and the indigenous Palestinians were ousted from their native lands and made into refugees. Unbeknownst to many, Israel continues to create Palestinian refugees in the present day by revoking the residency rights of Palestinians from Jerusalem; one of these newly-minted refugees is my mother, whose Jerusalem residency rights were revoked in 2010 based on an Israeli law that stipulates that one's "center of life" must be in Jerusalem in order to retain a Jerusalem ID card.

My mother grew up in a picturesque and historical neighborhood in southern Jerusalem called Beit Safafa. A native Jerusalemite, she was born there and lived in the city through adulthood. After marrying my father, she left her native Jerusalem for the very first time and moved to the United States. I was born less than a year later; my younger siblings soon followed. Five years later, my parents decided to live apart so that my siblings and I could be brought up in Jerusalem (since my father is a descendant of refugees, he was not allowed to live with us in Jerusalem); my mother and father placed tremendous importance on their children knowing their heritage and the Arabic language. The next four years were, and remain to be, the best of my life. I attended a UN school in Jerusalem and excelled in Arabic. Several times a week, my mother would take my siblings and I to the Al-Aqsa mosque after school. The mosque features a very large courtyard and I spent much of those few years running and playing around the mosque’s gardens and olive trees. Eventually, despite the happy childhood memories I gained living in Jerusalem, my parents realized that living apart was impractical. With no way for my father to come and reside with us in Jerusalem, the decision was made and we returned to the United States.

The author at her former school in Jerusalem.

Once we returned to the United States, my mother began a series of trips to Palestine in order to retain her Jerusalem residency status. Every two or three years, she would fly to Palestine and stay there for a week or two. The purpose of her trips was to not exceed the Israeli-imposed limit of three years that she could be out of the country as a Jerusalem ID holder. Like clockwork, every couple of years, she would leave me and my younger siblings in the care of our full-time working father and fly half-way around the earth. She timed her trips to be during the school year so that we wouldn’t be home alone during the daytime while she was abroad. Little did we know that all of the sacrifices that had made to retain my mother’s Jerusalem ID would be in vain. In 2010, on one of her routine trips to Palestine, my mother was informed by 18-year old Israeli border officials that her Jerusalem ID had been revoked. In one moment, her past, present, and future were completely changed.

My mother’s trip to Palestine began normally that year. She said goodbye to us and departed from Los Angeles International Airport. After a layover in London, she arrived in Amman, Jordan and took a taxi to the Allenby Border Crossing between the West Bank and Jordan. Upon arriving at the border crossing, everything was routine and Israeli border authorities issued my mother her Jerusalem ID card allowing her back into the country. After spending two weeks with my grandmother, she departed Jerusalem and took a taxi back to the Allenby Border Crossing. At the crossing, unusual occurrences began to unfold. My mother was taken to an interrogation room and interrogated for two hours. She was then informed that Israel was aware that she was residing in the United States and that she held a US passport. Despite never exceeding the Israeli-imposed limit of how long she could be outside of Jerusalem, her Jerusalem ID was permanently revoked. After a lifetime, she suddenly had no claim to her home. To add insult to injury, Israeli soldiers at the border crossing informed my mother that should she wish to return to Jerusalem in the future to visit my grandmother, uncles, aunts, and cousins, she could try to apply for a tourist visa. My mother, a native Jerusalemite, now had to “try” for a tourist visa just to go home. She was subsequently denied from exiting the country from this border crossing and told that she had to drive 90 minutes north to another border crossing for foreigners. In the blink of an eye, she became a foreigner in her own land.

Israeli law stipulates that a Jewish person from any country on earth is automatically eligible for Israeli citizenship and the right to live in Jerusalem from the moment he steps foot in the country. Israeli law also dictates that the residency rights of any Palestinian Jerusalemite whose "center of life" is not Jerusalem can be revoked at any time, even if that person was born in Jerusalem, raised in Jerusalem, worked in Jerusalem, and that her mother and siblings still reside in Jerusalem. After consulting with lawyers, my family received confirmation that nothing could be done to help my mother. 

The revocation of my mother’s Jerusalem ID card came swiftly and unexpectedly. And in the following months, the exact same scenario played out with two of my aunts residing in Dubai and the UK. It has been a big blow to my entire family. My mother has not returned to Palestine since her Jerusalem ID was revoked. I often try to encourage her to attempt to go to Jerusalem so she could spend time with my ailing grandmother; however, she refuses to discuss the subject. I know that she longs to go home; however, she fears that she will be denied entry. Quite frankly, I sometimes feel that it's best that she does not try to go back; at her age, I deeply worry about the implications that could result if my mother has to deal with another bout with Israeli border authorities.

Despite what took place with my mother, I try to go to Palestine as frequently as possible in order to maintain a connection with my homeland and extended family. This summer, I flew to Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv. After hours of interrogations, Israeli authorities granted me a tourist visa so I could visit my family in Jerusalem. In the two months I spent there, my 80-year old grandmother kept asking me the same question every morning after having breakfast and our daily cup of mint tea, “am I ever going to see your mother again?” I didn't have the heart to try to explain everything. So every morning, with a straight face, I told her the same lie over and over, “of course”.
The author overlooking the Old City of Jerusalem. Sept. 2012

Saturday, November 17, 2012

A Palestinian-American's Thoughts on the Current War on Gaza

There comes a point where a Palestinian-American simply turns off the news. It's just too much to watch our brothers and sisters in Gaza burn away while we have our In-N-Out burgers, complain about the traffic on the freeway, and continue to live in our suburban bubbles. It's just too much to come to terms with the fact that we reap the benefits (and sympathies) associated with being Palestinian while directly financing the murder and torture of our brothers and sisters with our tax money. If there ever was a big contradiction, this is it. What a strange position to be in.

May God have mercy on the people of Gaza.

Sunday, November 4, 2012

24 Hours in Istanbul: Not Your Average Layover

A couple of years ago, I got stuck with a 14-hour layover in Frankfurt, Germany. Due to circumstances, my family and I did not leave the airport. Consequently, after a 12-hour flight from Los Angeles, we spent 14-hours walking around the airport's terminals trying to fall asleep in uncomfortable chairs. I learned many lessons that day:
  • Frankfurt Airport smells like cheese.
  • Trying to fall asleep in the airport's chairs is futile. And back pain will ensue.
  • If, immediately after a 12-hour flight, you get stuck with a 14-hour layover with no possibility of leaving the airport, cancel the whole trip. It's not worth the torture.
Little did I know that a couple of years later, I would find myself with something even more ridiculous than a 14-hour layover: a 24 hour stop in Istanbul on my way home from Palestine to LA. With the wisdom gained in Germany a few years prior, plans were immediately made for the stay in Turkey from the moment I found out about it. The opportunity to explore Istanbul was one that I might not get again in a long time. I came up with a skeleton plan which included visiting some of the major sights of the city while also having the flexibility to change and add as things went along. As soon as my flight landed at Ataturk International Airport, I literally RAN off the plane, dropped off bags at a left luggage, jumped into a taxi, and set out to see as much of Istanbul as humanly possible in the time I had. I arrived at 10am and my flight out was the following morning. Here is what happened:


First stop of the morning: Ayasofya.

Ayasofya

Ayasofia

Ayasofia

Second stop: Basilica Cistern

Basilica Cistern: A quick, but VERY worthwhile stop.

Basilica Cistern

Third stop: lunch on the Bosphorus.

Fourth stop: Galata Tower.

Captured incredible views from the top of Galata Tower.



Fifth stop: Istiklal Street

Walking on Istiklal Street: I would skip this if short on time.

Turkish ice cream: unique and definitely a must-try.

Final stop of the day: the Blue Mosque at sunset.


  


The view from my hotel room. Exhausted from all the walking. Calling it a night.


Breakfast. It was hard to pay attention to the food with this view.

Morning walk: passed many carpet stores.

Morning walk: stopped at the Blue Mosque and saw this.

Cats are everywhere in this city.

Finishing my morning walk and heading back to check out of the hotel and on to the airport.

Arrived at the airport.

A view of the sea from my airport gate.

Lots of Turkish Airlines planes in Istanbul, naturally.

Waiting for takeoff on my Turkish Airlines flight to Los Angeles.

I got to hold on to Turkish food for a few extra hours.

Excellent food on Turkish Airlines. What a nice change.

Seeing the NASA plane that carried Endeavor Shuttle upon my arrival to LAX = Priceless